Dawnie

This morning for the first time in what feels like forever, me and the Green Fish were able to go surfing. Don't know why it has been so long since I last surfed this board - a combination of poor local conditions and not enough time at home. Now I have a new job hopefully this will change.

Today was great, a beautiful morning sitting in the lineup just as the sun rose. I managed a few good waves, it was only small, but I am suffering from lack of time in the water. My first observations about this board remain true, and if I am going to surf it well, I need to maximise my time in the water.

Please can we have some consistent swell...